Lofoten is an absolute must visit location for any enthusiastic climber – Midnight sun, outrageous views, easy approaches and immaculate granite are just a few of the reasons to add this destination to your bucket list.

Trad climbing in Lofoten

On the Lofoten Islands we have a huge amount of top quality granite trad climbs to choose from in summer, with a wide variety of road side routes, to slightly-less-roadside alpine adventures.

Route lengths vary from 1-17 pitches, and grades range from N3-N9. The trad climbing here is friendly in nature and often very well protected. Expect to climb cracks, slabs and corners with excellent friction and good protection. It’s a good idea to pack a double rack of cams, and bring two ropes to make it easier to get down. It’s possible to have some massive days out here, sometimes spanning 24 hours – in a place which never gets dark, the only limit is your endurance!

Most of the classic lines are situated on Austvagøy between Svolvær and Henningsvær, and about 90% of the most popular climbing is on the Henningsvær road. There are also many more routes to be found further West, with some absolutely classic routes situated in the dramatic mountains of Moskenes. This area is generally more serious in nature with longer runouts, more loose rock and some vegetation.

For those seeking adventure, it’s possible to get away from the crowds and off the beaten path. New routes are definitely there for the taking, but be warned – the rock quality on unestablished cliffs can vary wildly, so don’t be lulled into a false sense of security by the relatively safe nature of the classic lines: misadventures and epics are definitely possible!

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Sports Climbing in Lofoten

For those interested in clipping bolts, we have several sport crags on the islands. On Austvagøy between Kabelvåg and Svolvær, you will find a few friendly granite sport cliffs of a more slabby nature. These cliffs dry fast, get plenty of sun and are right next to the ocean which is great for a lunchtime dip to refresh yourself!

On Vestvagøy we have Eggum – a steep and arguably world-class sport crag with a variety of routes from grades 6a-8b. This crag is especially awesome as most of it remains dry all year round, even in the gnarliest of weather conditions! Prepare to get pumped on steep jugs and slopers, and bamboozaled by the unique and technical nature of the granite here. In the peak season, quickdraws are often left in the classic lines by the local crushers, so it’s almost as convenient as climbing indoors!

We also have two small but interesting indoor walls run by Vest-Lofoten Klatreklubb and Lofoten Tindeklubb – perfect for those rainy days (rain? what rain?!).

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Bouldering in Lofoten

Bouldering is also a big attraction on the Islands, and current development has only just scratched the surface. The islands are absolutely littered with boulders and new additions are being made constantly. Here you will find immaculate granite blocs right next to the ocean, and relatively easy-to-access mountain boulders with stunning views in dramatic landscapes. Information on bouldering can be found in the Bouldering in Lofoten guidebook.

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Winter/Alpine Climbing in Lofoten

Winter in Lofoten is a wild experience, with ever changing weather, fluctuating temperatures and long dark polar nights in the early season. Winter climbing on the islands therefore relies on a combination of local knowledge, good timing and luck. The routes in winter are generally not located on the same cliffs as the summer routes.

Due to the fluctuating conditions, “hero-ice” is a very rare find in Lofoten, and the rock on winter lines can be difficult to protect. In winter you will often find yourself running it out over poor protection on semi frozen turf, or placing many less-than-ideal screws. Despite this, a good amount of winter Alpine lines have been established across the islands over the years. And every now and then, the stars will align to form a bunch of blue ice all over the hills.

If you come to Lofoten for winter climbing, prepare for adventure, and expect the unexpected: it won’t be given to you on a plate, but the reward can be massive! There’s something particularly special about swinging ice axes with a beach below and Northern Lights swirling overhead, and wherever you choose to climb, you’re almost guaranteed to be the only team on the route.

Info on winter climbing in Lofoten is hard to come by, and we like to keep it that way, but if you’re keen to learn more, we would love to meet you and give you some local tips. Just pop into Retur for a coffee and we can answer all your questions and give you some solid recommendations. We’ll even tell you where the local bolted drytooling crag is 😉

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When to visit

For rock climbing the best time to visit is between May and September. With massive variations in conditions, it’s a good idea to take a long trip to allow for almost guaranteed bad weather days.

The best time to roll the dice for a winter climbing trip to Lofoten is late November – early March. Be prepared to be flexible and expect the unexpected!

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Where to stay

There is a huge variety of accommodation in Lofoten for any taste and budget. For a climber visiting in the summer, it’s a good idea to be based around Svolvær, Kabelvæg or Henningsvær, with the latter being closest to the main action! Henningsvær is a small town with a lot going on, so if you’re looking for shelter here it’s a very good idea to book in advance. Those booking on shorter notice will find it easier to find a bed further away from Henningsvær. Camping is also a good option, and there are a number of good campsites available on the islands. Wild camping is a common practice for visiting climbers. Read up on Allemansretten (the Norwegian right-to-roam) which allows for this – there are some important rules and principles you must follow when choosing to camp wild. As with any natural area leaving no trace is a must – respecting the land, nature and local population not only ensures that the beauty of the islands is protected, it also helps to keep access open for all.

For those visiting in winter, accommodation is typically easier to come by. Any of the above mentioned locations are a good starting point 🙂

If you got this far, you’re obviously interested in visiting these beautiful islands – we warmly welcome you to swing by and enjoy the unique experience of climbing in Lofoten and hope to meet you soon!

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More information

For detailed information about rock climbing in Lofoten, you can either download the Rockfax app or purchase one of the local climbing guidebooks. We of course invite you to visit our shop in Svolvær where you can get some good quality local knowledge from our friendly and exceptionally psyched staff. We sell everything you need for your climbing trip and even rent crash pads, and best of all our coffee is free 😉